An off-the-beaten-path guide to Siem Reap, Cambodia

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There are certain places you travel to that steal your heart, without even trying. That was the case for Siem Reap, in Cambodia. Despite visiting the temples of Angkor Wat, we wanted to make sure we had a more authentic and off-the-beaten-path experience of the city. That’s why we chose to do things a little differently here.

We came to Siem Reap after 6 months of traveling. We learned to take it slow, go with the flow, and not try to do too much in a short amount of time. We also learned to balance the touristy sights with more off-the-beaten-path visits. Siem Reap was exactly on the same page as us. Easy-going, laid-back, charming, and just the right amount of fun!

Cambodia made our list for a very simple reason, Carine’s love of yoga. Early on, when we decided we’d be globetrotting through South East Asia, we knew Cambodia was a must-visit destination. It’s renown as one of the best places in the world for yoga retreats, not to mention the amazing temples. We arrived there with no expectations. We only had 12 days to spend in the city, including some time in a yoga retreat.

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The sweet people of Siem Reap

Mala bead vendor in Siem Reap Cambodia - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com
The kind people of Siem Reap

The first thing we noticed about Siem Reap was the friendly smiles on the locals’ faces, as soon as our plane landed. We were greeted with the warmest welcome a custom border officer can probably ever give you! We were off to a great start! And the smiles only continued to roll in after that. First, from Dara, the Babel Guesthouse tuk-tuk driver who picked us up. He would happily explain where we were at every turn.

Then the kids on scooters, who would slyly wave or pull a peace sign out with their brightest and warmest Hello! We couldn’t help but have a smile permanently painted on our faces. It seemed like even the market vendors were just out to get a laugh with you when we walked by their stalls. Even if we weren’t buying anything!

Usually, in other South-East Asian countries, they would haggle, and argue, sometimes getting angry when we’d walk away. But not in the magical Kingdom of Cambodia. Here, all interactions were done with a smile and friendly banter. A welcomed change to long-term travelers.

A chance encounter in the city center

One of our best memories with locals was the night we set out to find some bugs to eat at the night market. As we walked by some restaurants, one bar manager stopped us to talk about football (or soccer for all our friends in North America). Derek might have been wearing his famous Argentina jersey, which always gets us into some fun conversations. He wanted us to come in for a drink at his bar, for free. He just wanted to talk! When we told him that we were looking to get some bugs to eat, he made us a deal: “I will come and show you where to find the best bugs if you come back to my bar with me for some beers after…”

You have yourself a deal!

Eating bugs in Siem Reap's night market - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com
Carine’s one and only bug lady!

First, the woman selling the bugs was the sweetest and liveliest one we’ve met. She enthusiastically explained where she gets her bugs, why they are good for you, and all that good stuff. I kind of wish she would have hired me to help her sell bugs, as I’ve grown quite fond of them (and her). What good is all my experience in marketing if I can’t help some sweet lady sell bugs! But more on that later!

We held our end of the promise. After getting our fix of bugs, we headed back to the bar for drinks. There, we sat with our friend for a good hour. He spoke to us about his childhood, his upbringing, his hopes and dreams for his future, but more importantly, for the future of his country.

He has started a program with some friends and other locals to help build homes for the less fortunate. They all pitch in some money every week, and once they have saved up enough, they find a family to help out. They either renovate their home or build a new one. He didn’t want other kids to grow up the way he did. He was such an inspiration!

In French, they would say that we had a “Coup de Coeur” for the people of Cambodia. But it seems like that doesn’t do it justice!

Siem Reap’s off-the-beaten-path yoga retreats

Yoga retreat in Siem Reap - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com
We spend 5 hours a day in here

After a few days in the bustling city, we were ready to disconnect a little. Disconnect from our phones and screens, from the hustle and bustle of the city. Our goal was to get off-the-beaten-path and reconnect with nature and ourselves. We found the perfect retreat a short tuk-tuk ride away from Siem Reap called Angkor Zen Gardens.

We spent about 5 hours a day in yoga or meditation classes. We worried about this before we started. Would 5 hours be too much? But the classes were spaced out just enough, and the energy level in each class varied. By the end of the day, we were a little sore but felt refreshed and rejuvenated.

Any free time we had was spent by the pool, but can you blame us? We were dealing with +30ºC temperatures. We could also be found in the dining hall, chatting with new friends, eating some delicious vegetarian meals and insanely fresh fruits.

Buddha statue at the yoga retreat in Siem Reap - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com

We stayed there for four days. Needless to say that we would have loved to extend our stay! Our home during that time was a lovely little bungalow. And our time was shared with like-minded ‘Do-It-Your-Way’-ers we won’t be forgetting anytime soon. This was the perfect getaway and the highlight of our off-the-beaten-path exploration of Siem Reap.

Exploring Siem Reap’s temples differently

Sunrise at Angkor Wat - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com
Angkor Wat at sunrise

Well obviously! Did you really think we would go to Siem Reap and not visit the Angkor Wat temples? We know we do things our way and love getting off-the-beaten-path. But you simply can’t ignore the 7th wonder of the world! A UNESCO World Heritage site, and the largest religious monument in the world!

We got up super early one morning, earlier than we care to admit, and we set out to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. We spent three days admiring the beauty that is Angkor Wat and its many temples.

The organized tours are split into 2 categories: The Big tour (as temples are further from each other) and the Small Tour (which has your famous Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, and Bayon).

If you’re feeling adventurous and want to get off-the-beaten-path of temple tours, there is the beautiful Lady temple, Banteay Srei that’s about an hour out of Siem Reap. It’s small but quite beautiful, and you get to see life in the countryside. Plus, because not many people go there, it’s less crowded and much more enjoyable to visit.

Angkor Wat temples in Siem Reap - Off-the-beaten-path guide - WeDidItOurWay.com
One of the many temples in Angkor Wat

We weren’t expecting much when we set out to discover the temples. Yes, we knew they were old, that they were impressive and beautiful. However, it’s only when you see them up-close that you truly understand the magnitude of their beauty. Angkor Wat is probably the best conserved of the bunch, but because some temples have not aged so well, many countries around the world are working to restore them to their former glory.

We took three days to see ten temples. If we could have, we might have taken ten days, to truly explore them. If you plan on going, here’s what you should know.

Places to stay in Siem Reap

When it comes to accommodations in Siem Reap, there are plenty of offers, from budget-friendly to high-budget, but here are the ones that struck out to us:

Babel Guesthouse: The premier eco-friendly, socially-responsible tourist destination in Siem Reap. A lovely staff, a quaint garden restaurant, the friendliest owners and a contributing member of their community, we loved our stay here.

Bou Savy Guesthouse: Located in the heart of Siem Reap, a short walk away from the Royal Residence, the Old Market and Angkor Night Market. This guesthouse is a great place to stay if you’re looking to experience Siem Reap’s legendary temples, to get off-the-beaten-path or explore their vibrant city center. You’re close enough to the action, without being bothered by hoards of loud tourists. Attentive staff; beautiful and cozy rooms; a great restaurant downstairs where breakfast is served; a nice swimming pool to help you cool down after a long day of temple visits. What more could you need?

Popular Residence: Located slightly off the tourist trail, in a lovely area, this beautiful boutique hotel features a breakfast variety, amazing spacious rooms, lovely modern design, and of course, a great swimming pool right in the center court. The staff will go to all lengths to make sure your stay is the best in Siem Reap. The cherry-on-top is the fact that they offer free tuk-tuk rides to the city center.

Angkor Zen Gardens: If yoga is your thing, and even if it isn’t, but you’re looking for a new experience, we cannot say enough good things about this retreat. Connected with nature, Angkor Zen will help you be one with your body and mind, and feed you like a king or queen while it does! You can either stay here for a retreat or drop in for any of the classes.

Where to eat in Siem Reap

Tuk Tuk Tacos: When you need a little break from Khmer food, head down to Tuk Tuk Tacos. They have amazing margaritas and delicious tacos that are fairly priced. The decor is super cute, the staff is sweet and the ambiance is laid-back. Our favorite tacos were the pulled jackfruit tacos. They pack in quite a kick!

Khmer Grill: For a delicious but cheap Khmer meal, this is the place! Situated close to Pub Street, the restaurant offers all sorts of traditional Khmer dishes and a great variety of vegetarian food. They will even add tofu to their traditional meals to make sure you get enough protein. Bon appétit!

Le Tigre de Papier: From Khmer dishes to Italian fare, this restaurant has it all. And it’s all delicious, unlike other places that fail at making traditional Western food. If you want a good fire-oven pizza, this is the place!

When to visit Siem Reap

Like the rest of Cambodia, expect Siem Reap to be hot and muggy all-year round. The city has two seasons which are differentiated primarily by the amount of rainfall.

The busy season in Siem Reap

From November to April, you’ll be in the dry season. This means less rain and more comfortable temperatures. It also means you can expect more tourists around. December to February see cooler temperatures, making this the most popular time to visit, and also the most expensive. Expect hotel prices to peak, especially if you’re getting there close to the Christmas/ New Year’s holidays. If you’re looking to avoid crowds, you may want to get off-the-beaten path here or just avoid these months!

From April and May, temperatures get uncomfortably hot, often hitting 38°C (100°F). If you go during this time, make sure you explore more during the early mornings and spend afternoons in the shade or by a pool. In the afternoons, the city gets so hot, muggy and humid, it’s almost unbearable.

Avoiding the crowds in Siem Reap

May to October is monsoon season. This means you’ll have plenty of afternoon showers, with heavier downfalls overnight. However, there’s still plenty of sunshine the rest of the time. The showers become more intense from June onwards, but the crowds taper away, so there is a silver lining here. Plus, all the rain makes the vegetation lush and the flowers bloom, which is perfect for your Angkor Wat pictures!

Getting around Siem Reap

There are 2 good ways to get around the city of Siem Reap and the Angkor Wat temples. You can either hire a tuk-tuk driver, or you can bike around.

Supporting tuk-tuk drivers in Siem Reap

Tuk-tuk drivers make it easy and breezy to get around the city. Distances are sometimes surprisingly far, so having a motorized way of getting around makes for more enjoyable days, especially if it’s really hot. Most fares will cost you about $5, depending on how far you’re going. Feel free to tip, if the driver did a good job.

If you’re using a tuk-tuk driver to get around the Angkor Wat temples, there are set prices for the different tours. The small tour will set you back $15 USD, while the Big tour is about $18. If you want to go for sunrise, add another $5 to the total cost.

Biking around Siem Reap

You can also rent a bike if you want to get around the city or temples. We would recommend getting the e-bikes as they will save you some energy, especially on those hot and muggy days (basically, every day!). The e-bikes will set you back $10 for 24 hours, but they do allow you to get off-the-beaten-path a little more and avoid the crowds.

Non-electric bikes are a much cheaper option, costing only a few dollars, but they do require quite a bit more energy and expect to get quite dusty. They may be best suited for city exploration!

As we said, we never expected to fall so in love with Cambodia, especially after such a short time there. However, we loved our time in Siem Reap. We loved getting away and exploring things that were off-the-beaten-path. Although the temples were also quite impressive and should not be missed.


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3 Comments

  1. darshanakoirala

    Loving your blog! What camera/editing software do you use? The photos are great!

    • Carine & Derek

      Thanks for taking the time to check out our blog! We use a Sony RX100 and we use Lightroom to give our pictures a little extra oomph.

  2. Daniel & Bre

    Uhhh what a fantastic description of a fantastic destination. Keep them coming guys! It is easy to see how hard you worked on putting this together.

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We’re Carine and Derek, two Canadians in love with each other, the environment and this world. We left our old routines behind to discover all the wonders our planet has to offer. We want to inspire everyone to chase their dreams and leave a positive impact on Earth.

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